Dear Sandy, thanks for stopping by, now give me my Malécon back!

   The extent of our experience with Sandy was limited to an day of downpour in Cienfuegos, and minor flooding.... Or so we thought. Then we all returned to our beloved pent house to discover that the raging winds were not only four times louder on the 12th floor, but had also taken over our Malécon. Transforming our go-to hang out into a disastrous, flooding, angry, Sandy mess!!

The Malécon soaking a silly passerby 

    We were rather clueless on what to do. We couldn't go on our usual Malécon runs, no more Duro-Frio on the wall, or chatting with out fishermen friends, and above all we had lost our nightly refugee. When Cuba's bars and discos had nothing to offer, we could always rely on the Malécon to provide us entertainment. Rum in the "Modern Barrel", Malta, Mani and the Malécon was always our perfect recipe and Thursday night savior.

The view from our pool of the Malécon, as angry as ever. 

   But with Sandy hanging around, our Malécon was off limits unless you had your swim gear, life vest, and serious nerve, it was better to steer clear. Not to mention the winds would blow you back right were you came from.
  After days of trying to navigate life with such a gapping hole, our dear Malécon is returning to its normal state or peace and subtle entertainment.
  Good riddance Sandy. 

Mamey and Duro-Frio

 My two most recently adopted addictions: Mamey and Duro-Frios (English = Hard-Colds).

The usual spread

 Mamey is a typical Latin American fruit native to southern Mexico. The fruit is similar to an avocado, though sweeter, and bright red on the inside. It is also a seasonal fruit, only available in Cuba in the summer months. I got to try it twice before they disappeared from the markets, and I feel instantly in love.

3 Peso Love 

'When not in season the next best way to consume Mamey is in Batidos (a combination of a smoothie and a milk shake, sol for between 3 15 pesos). It is a heavenly mixture of Mamey, milk, sugar, ice, and various other mystery ingredients. I have located three cafeterias around Havana that still stock Mamey Batidos, and I am constantly on the hunt for more!


Duro-Frio is another addiction entirely. It is the one Cuban food that I can never resist (even in "cold weather" like yesterday when with freezing ocean wind and raging Malecon* see Sandy Post).  Duro-Frios are like the utopia of frozen sweets. Similar to a popsicle, yet so, so much more delightful. They are not too sweet, perfectly textured, and the best refreshment available. But you have to know where to find them. Real Duro-Frios are rarely sold in Cafetarias, but rather from people's kitchens and backyards. To get Duro-Frios you need the right connections (I have 4 such connects in Havana, and I am wiling to share.)

Lex and I eating our 3rd Coco Duro-Frio of the day

The ingredients are an utter mystery. Though they are made in Bucanero Beer cans cut in half, then frozen with a wooden stick handle. I have tried (* in order of deliciousness): coco, mani, limon, pina guayaba, naragja, and chocolate. Coco takes the 1st prize by a long shot. Mani is undeniably incredible, and the rest are mere favorites. 

If you haven't tried it... come to Cuba. 

Missions

Our time in Trinidad was strange to say the least. All inclusive resorts...no me cae bien. Enough said. However... there were perks. For example, waking up for morning runs on pristine white beaches, with endless horizon and pink skies is blissful. Unlimited coffee and drinks also helps the mood. Yet it did not take long for the novelty to wear off...

The view from our hotel in Trinidad. 

Feeling fussy in our hotel, Mad and I busted out an "Adana" workout. The Cuban version of P90X. And with the right lighting, the results of 2 months of boxing training is visible.

Thanks to boxing our biceps are just visible in the beach twilight. 

Escaping from the "All Inclusive Castle" Mad and Nick and I set out for a tempting shipwreck in the nearby harbor. The weather (gusting wind, raining and otherwise totally unpredictable) was less than ideal for long-distance swimming, but we had already bragged and we had to give it a shot....

And we did. 

Back on land, unsuccessful, yet living. 

Unfortunately the combination of the wind, rain, unfavorable tide, and deceptively far away boat proved out of our skill range. After 15 minuets of hard swimming we had barely reached halfway, and sadly decided it was in our lives best interest to turn back.. good thing too. As it turned out our swim back was unexpectedly against the current and far more difficult than anticipated.

 But, in the end, we lived... just slightly downtrodden. 

Taller Alfero

Trinidad is surrounded by rich soil, perfect for ceramic work. We visited on of the famous ceramic studies in the area. The family has been working with clay for seven generations and has developed an impressive studio and exhibition of work. 

The clay comes from nearby the city limits. The family buys it cheaply, in the form of "raw" or "unprocessed" dirt, then processes it as need be in their back yard. 

As for kilns, they have three wood stove ovens for all the general firing, then one electrical, modern kiln for the more detailed process of firing pieces with valuable glazes and detailed paintings.

Perfected, the entire process of creation takes less than a few hours. I watched this ceramists throw no less then 4 bowls, 2 plates, and a cowboy hat in 20 minuets. Not to mention teach a clueless tourist how to run the wheel and shape the outline of a pot. 

Just beyond the city...

Manaca Iznaga lies 20 minuets outside of Trinidad. It is a tiny community, revolving around tourism. The one and only main street is a small boulevard lined with vendors selling beautiful white linen, hats, and wooden jewelry. When the sugar plantation left the area, the community was forced to create new means of income and thus took up artisan trades such as embroidery, and woodwork.

The city's tower, encircled with vendors and the trademark white linen.  

The view from the top 

A long way down 

Mad and I 

Things are looking up 

Think outside boxes 

Maddie

Waiting for departure

Tedious Traditions 

Touring Trinidad

On of the older cities in Cuba, Trinidad was founded in 1514 and is now known for its well preserved streets, UNESCO funding, and tourism. Regardless of the atmosphere, Trinidad in undeniably beautiful, with rainbow buildings, cobble stone streets, and mixture of colonial architecture. 

Se Vende

Tourism is the main economy of Trinidad, and with it the typical straw hats, carved wood, vibrant art, and bottles of Havana Club. 

Estillo Destruido 

We left the city to climb the closest "mountain" (aka small hill above the city), on our way we passed by this church which Lonely Planet had described as "beyond its glory days". Behind the church, construction for a new hotel had begun, but this too must have past its prime as the only guests were 10 milk cows and weeds.

Faster than walking down 

Maddie, hot and tired of the blazing sun, chose the faster rout down the mountain... it worked great until she reached the bottom. 

Where to go when the streets end...

Now Where?

Learning from the Pros.

At the first boxing tournament of the season, the winners from the last four days battle for a spot in the finals. Each match was composed of three, 3 minute rounds. Ages ranged from 15 year olds on the national team to 30+ who had long outlived their boxing prime. 

After the matches we returned to Miranda's studio and trained hard for 2 hours, channeling our memories from the mornings matches and envisioning all our future glories in the ring.. or maybe just the gym.

Urban Exploration

While exploring the winding streets of Camagüey I discovered an abundance of city culture. From towering churches to block-long murals. The city is famous for its maze like streets (once used to confuse and entrap invading pirates).

The city's most impressive cathedral constructed in the 1800s and restored many times since, the stained glass remains broken, the stones stained with weather, and the air musty with years of service. 

Morning rises with Mass

Bronze statues pay tribute the the locals that live in Plaza de Carmen. Like eerie ghosts they often come a sit with their metal replications, drawing stares from tourists, and laughs from neighbors. 

Not all Cuban art is official. These portraits utilized the "estillo destruido" and available resources. to create a haunting  commentary on the access to supplies throughout Cuba

Some murals are for pure enjoyment. 

Vampires, Piña Coladas, and Comida.

  Tropical Cuba is the perfect place for agricultural abundance! Blessed with astonishingly fertile soil, endless growing seasons, powerful sun, and equally powerful rain, growth is inevitable.  
    Unfortunately, this does not mean that Cuba is the utopia of diverse produce that I had envisioned. Nope, the days dreaming of all types of veggies, fruits, spices, roots, legumes, and so on... are just that dreams.
   The reality of produce in Cuba is much more specific, and barely fills a shopping list; potatoes, beans, cucumbers, peppers, pineapple, bananas, papaya, guava, avocado and the occasional tomato, squash and eggplant. Although limited the produce that is available is produces in high abundance, and high quality. 

The usual abundance of garlic at the local agro in Camguey.

     For example there is enough garlic for sale, to extinguish a whole army of vampires. From the massive strings for sale in the agros, to the daily street vendors shouting "aaaaaajjjjjjjooooo! Se Vende aaaajjjjoooo!!!" Garlic is available year round, 24/7, in abundance. 

Pineapples for sale in Camaguey . 10mn for each one equals about .50 cents in USD.  

  Pineapple is also a staple crop, prominent throughout agros and street vendors. Although the Piña Coladas are made from anything but fresh pineapple, they make the perfect breakfast.

Sweet Oranges for sale. 

 Fall is citrus season in Cuba. Everything from oranges to grapefruits to lemons, limes, mandarins, and countless other nameless varieties are overflowing the vendors carts.

Particularly fresh tomatoes

Agro 19 & B is known as being the most expensive vendor to buy produce, yet it often has the freshest produce in Havana. On a lucky day I was able to find everything from carrots, to grapes, to tomatoes, and even the rare MAMEY!

Carrots and grapes are rare at agros, reflected in their high prices: $1 a pound

It would be monkey heaven!

Bananas are always for sale, often stacked in layers, they come in sweet varieties ready to eat, cooking varieties that are starchier, and frying varieties that make delicious platino chips.

THE SIZE OF YOUR FACE
 Avocados (literally the size of your face) are constituently available produce throughout Cuba. Though Havana hosts the largest Catalina species, one variety or another can can be found anywhere. 

Urban Agriculture In Cuba

Price List 

Weight Scale

My Good Friends at the Butcher Shop

27 years selling produce 

Julian. 81 years old. Retired Farmer. Retired musician. Retired bus driver. And Current Grandfather. 

Eggplant and Coconut 

Carrots and Grapes. 

Evolution of Boxers

After a month a Miranda's we have transformed from awkward boxing mimes, to self sufficient boxer, capable of swinging punches, throwing jabs, and coordinating attack passes, defense and trick. 

We still have a long way to go, but a real round is on the horizon, and a match is plausible.  

Ready to Work

Nick

Generations of Gear

Waiting for the distance 

Nick and Maddie

Bag Work 

Upper Cut

After an afternoon of sweat and hard work it feels great to strip off the wraps.